Miranda & Toddie's World Tour: NZ (The Second week)

For our second week of New Zealand we left Dunedin & headed directly west through Gore (the Trout capital of the world), Mossburn (the Venison capital of New Zealand) & onto the spectacular lakeside town of Te Anau at the edge of the Fiordland National Park. Whilst extremely beautiful in its own right (because of its snow topped mountains, mirrored waters & lush green forests) Te Anau is actually more well know as a transfer point to the magnificent Milford /Doubtful sounds although that didn't stop us enjoying several walks along its banks for the evening we were there!

Left: Gore!

With camera at the ready, snow chains on board & enough supplies to feed a small army for several days we headed along state highway 94 towards Milford Sound. Upon nearing the Homer tunnel we stopped off to look at the funny Kea's (local green parrots) before sighting our first fresh (of many) avalanche. Realizing the reality of the safety warnings we had received, we cracked on & descended down the windy road to Milford itself for a magnificent view of Mitre Peak in bright, bright sunshine. Unfortunately the weather changes quickly in those parts (as it often does) and with clouds hiding the near by peaks from view, we made a quick retreat to Te Anau before onwards travel to Queenstown.

Left: On route to Milford. Centre: the road in. Right: Mitre peak!

Left: Te Anau walk. Centre: A Kea. Right: Afternoon tea in Milford.

Like so many of NZ towns, Queenstown is picture perfect in every way although strangely its the spine tingling cries that grab your attention as you walk your way along its quaint little streets. Thankfully such cries are just calls from the adrenalin junkies that flock to the area to jump from perfectly good aircraft, dive/swing from mountain high platforms or race along ice cold waters but inches from hard granite! Whilst it wouldn't have taken long to sign up for all such activities once upon a time,( ed. this is a sign of us both getting old and counting pennies and life expectancies!! ) restraint was applied (afterall we are away for 10 months & had booked a scenic flight to Milford Sound!) & we opted for a single adventure! Not that the Shotover Jet wasn't a ride of a lifetime as seconds in, both our lives flashed before our eyes as the first of several 360degree turns was thrown in. Our 30 minute ride was over all too quickly, but we consoled ourselves in a local bottle shop with a wine & cheese tasting session.

Left: the boat /rocket. Centre: the excited couple. Right: Effects of wine & cheese!

Left & Right: View's from the plane to Milford, before the cloud came in and cancelled the trip!

Above: Miranda walks on water after all!

On waking the next day, we drove along Highway 6 to the ski fields of Cardona & whilst it was very late in the season, conditions were just enough to venture out in the snow although Miranda's choice of cross country 'Nordic' style sking was a little concerning as some of us have never skied before!! Although lightly bruised after a few tumbles, ( ed. well he did - I was ok!) we emerged in one piece, (ed.resisted the urge to buy lycra suits) and continued on our way through Wanaka to Haast on the West coast.

Left: Nordic sking...not! Right: Lake Wanaka....another lush place!

Confusingly the town of Haast is spread out across 3 area's! The township, the junction & the beach. To be fair, if it wasn't for the fact we needed somewhere to stay (due to the time we arrived) I think we would have driven straight on through the place - as after trying out the "beach side" caravan park and discovering that "swamp side" would have been more descriptive we were keen to leave! However the township appeared less 'Dingle like' & so we stayed until the second the local petrol station opened & made good our escape.

On route to the glaciers of Fox & Franz-Josef we passed by Bruce bay & whilst the place didn't even get a mention in our Rough Guide, the beachfront stone creations instigated a short break. Whether it be the laylines that are said to cross there or Mauri gods at work we don't know. But for sure Bruce's Bay surely signifies the point at which many a fellow traveller has taken stock, thrown out the schedule & enjoyed the moment for no other reason than you can!

Left: Bruce Bay & the stone formations!

With alot less haste we mosied on down the road to Fox Glacier where standing next to the sheer vertical wall of ice we couldn't help but look back along the valley (from where it's retreated in recent decades) & consider the clearly obvious effects of global warming! No lecture on this blog, but we know what we need to do when we get back & it involved a lot of digging holes & visits to the garden centre!

Left: Fox glacier retreating almost out of sight! Right: Franz-Josef glacier in 2009, 400m back from 1850!

Fox gave way to Franz-Josef but the observations were just as stark! Time for operation self sufficiency to come into being & no time sooner than when we stopped at the Bushman's cafe & order the daily ROADKILL special. Unfortunately or fortunately depending on which species you are, we ended up with a simple cheese toasty as the tarmac market was all out of stock!

Left: Toddie aka. Bear Grills! Right: A menu with a twist!

Another polluting drive later & the rocks of Punakaiki (Pancake) were just about visable through the rain as yet again the weather played its part in our daily activities. Fortunately New Zealands top backpackers stay was only a mile down the road & so we checked into Te Nikau.

Run by a great chap called Hamish this environmentally aware, semi-self sufficient & relaxing hostel was just what was required to beat back the gloom of the weather & so we stayed a few days to enjoy the local attractions, wildlife, walks and freshly baked muffins!